Halcyon Yarn’s Tips for Working with Linen for Weavers & Knitters


Important Characteristics of Linen

Linen is strong, but it doesn’t like friction.

An individual strand of linen yarn is very strong. Linen can withstand a good tug from both ends before it snaps, but it cannot take a lot of friction. In other words, linen doesn’t like to rub against itself or against other things, like the heddles or the reed or your loom. Friction will cause the linen to fray and thereby weaken the yarn.


For Weavers:

Linen is inelastic.

Linen will not stretch very much in a warp. Once stretched, however, linen will not go back to its original shape because it has no “memory”. When working with linen, a constant and consistent tension is better than tight tension.


At the warping board, avoid piling up the threads when winding wide warps. Wind each end next to the previous one and when the pegs are full, start another chain. Tie each chain securely, in a number of places, to prevent the linen threads from rubbing against each other.


Keep the tension even while beaming the warp.

Make sure the ends are flat, not crossed and bunched up, across the back beam. Make sure the paper is wide enough to prevent the threads near the selvedges from sliding off and becoming slack.


To tie better knots, moisten your fingers.


Keep your warp tension consistent, but not too tight.


Weaving

A firm sett shows the pattern best; too open a sett will result in a flimsy fabric.


Use floating selvedges or double selvedge ends.


Beat once but beat hard.

Remember that you want to avoid creating friction on the warp threads. Ideally, you want to beat and change your treadles/harnesses all in one motion.


Advance your warp often.

Advance your warp after every few inches to keep your warp tension even. The greater your fell (the woven cloth in front of the breast beam) the tighter the warp becomes due to take-up.


Use moisture to ease a sticky warp.

Humidity is the real key, 40-50% is best. Use a humidifier or mist the air above the warp (mist behind the heddles to avoid rusting your reed). Avoid spaying the warp itself.


For Knitters:

Linen’s inherent stiffness and body make it perfect for lace knits. It will hold the pattern open beautifully. Do no use too large a needle though. The stitch will be open looking even at the appropriate gauge. It can be more difficult to knit with than wool because it is inelastic. You may find you prefer a wood or bamboo needle to add a little friction.

Finishing For Everyone:

Fringes will fray and disintegrate, use a hem instead.


When cutting linen cloth for sewing, finish seams so there are no raw edges.


Washing

Linen fabric is crisp but will soften with each washing.


Wash in hot soapy water (as hot as your hands can stand, but no hotter) with a mild detergent and rinse several times. The last rinse should be in cold water. Use a fabric softener if you wish. To prevent wrinkles, do not wring or twist.


Do not use chlorine bleach — it causes yellowing.


Lace weaves should be allowed to dry flat. Lace knits should be pinned to shape to accentuate the pattern. Other linens can hang dry, preferably over a fat rod like a shower curtain rod; thin rods may crease the fabric.


Ironing

Iron linens while damp with a steam iron on high heat.


For high shine, iron on the right side. To bring out texture, iron on the wrong side.


Storage

Store in a cool dry place.


Store flat whenever possible or rolled on a cardboard tube to prevent wrinkles.


Do not store in plastic bags, cedar chests, cardboard boxes, or in tissue paper. Any or all of these may cause yellowing.


Definitions

Wet spun flax fibers yield a yarn with a smooth finish.


Dry spun flax fibers yield yarn has a softer finish.


Tow linen is spun from shorter, sometimes cut, flax fibers. Tow linen can be wet spun or dry spun and is usually plied for greater strength. Halcyon Yarn’s Newport Linen is a dry spun tow linen.


Line linen is wet spun from the longest flax fibers. Line linen yarn has a smooth surface and is very strong. It is usually sold as a singles yarn (not plied) and is relatively expensive.


References


Collecting Antique Linens, Lace & Needlework: Identification, Restoration, and Prices Frances Johnson 50180000

Old Lace & Linen: Identification and Value Guide Maryanne Dolan 50760000

20th Century Linens and Lace Elizabeth Scofield & Peggy Zalamea 50800000

Lace Weaves Portfolio Leslie Voiers 52012000

Lace and Lacy Weaves Mary Snyder 53400000

Best of Weaver's Huck Lace XRX 53401000

The Master Weaver Library # 13 Woven Lace & Lacy Weaves S.A. Zielinski 53590000

Handwoven Laces Donna Muller 53730000

Barbara Abby's Knitting Lace Barbara Abbey 59002100

Traditional Knitted Lace Shawls Martha Waterman 59002700

Lace from the Attic Nancie Wiseman 59002720

A Creative Guide to Knitted Lace Jan Eaton 59003900

A Gathering of Lace - paper Meg Swansen 5905200P

Creating Original Hand-Knitted Lace Margaret Stove 59070000

First Book of Modern Lace Knitting M. Kinzel 59110000

Second Book of Lace Modern Knitting M. Kinzel 59120000

Heirloom Knitting: A Shetland Lace Knitter's Pattern and Workbook Sharon Miller 59130100

Lavish Lace Carol Rasmussen Noble & Cheryl Potter 59393020

Crocheted Lace Techniques, Patterns and Projects Pauline Turner 77308000

Bobbin Lace Without A Teacher Betty Alderson 77400000

Introduction to Bobbin Lacemaking Rosemary Shepherd 77440000

The Technique of Bobbin Lace Pamela Nottingham 77450000

Lessons in Bobbin Lacemaking Doris Southard 77460000

The Bobbin Lace Manual Geraldine Stott 77480000

Tatting Designs from Victorian Lace Craft*2nd Edition Jules & Kathe Kliot

77630000